Vieux-Lyon · Saint-Paul quarter
A restaurant in Saint-Paul, at the north of Vieux-Lyon
Between Saint-Paul church and Saint-Jean cathedral, on rue des Trois-Maries, Aux Trois Maries keeps the Lyonnaise table alive: one of the oldest bouchons in the city, at the heart of the Renaissance quarter.
In short
Saint-Paul is the northern tip of Vieux-Lyon, a Renaissance quarter and UNESCO World Heritage site, gathered around Saint-Paul church and its 1900s station. A few lanes away, on rue des Trois-Maries, stands Aux Trois Maries — one of the oldest bouchons in Lyon. Lunch and dinner here mean honest Lyonnaise cooking, served in a room with a chequered floor, a short walk from Saint-Paul church and the Vieux-Lyon metro station. A terrace in fine weather, rooms for groups, vegetarian and gluten-free options: just the table to discover the real bouchon on the Saint-Paul side. Booking strongly recommended at weekends.
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What you'll find on this page
The Saint-Paul quarter, northern tip of Vieux-Lyon
Saint-Paul closes Vieux-Lyon to the north, where the Saône bends at the foot of Fourvière. Around Saint-Paul church, one of the city's oldest sanctuaries, and its Belle Époque station topped with a clock, the quarter keeps the mark of the silk merchants and Florentine bankers of the Renaissance: galleried courtyards, spiral staircases, quiet traboules.
Less crowded than rue Saint-Jean, Saint-Paul is walked at a slow pace. It is a quarter of tables too, where — behind the signs cut for passing trade — the real Lyonnaise cuisine, the one passed on without folklore, still has to be found.
Aux Trois Maries holds that thread on rue des Trois-Maries, at the hinge of Saint-Paul and Saint-Jean, a few minutes' walk from Saint-Paul church. Born in the middle of the last century, the house is among the oldest bouchons in the city: just the place to eat on the Saint-Paul side without giving in to the postcard.
A table between Saint-Paul and the Saône
The restaurant sits on one of the quarter's pedestrian lanes, halfway between Saint-Paul church and the Saint-Jean square. The street owes its name to a 17th-century sign honouring the three Marys of the Gospel — Mary-Salome, Mary-Jacobe and Mary-Magdalene; it is also the house's name, echoed by the three silhouettes of its logo.
You'll spot the front by its red awning, among the shopfronts and Renaissance courtyards. In fine weather, the terrace spreads over the cobbles, in the shade of the lime tree on place de la Baleine, a stone's throw from the Saône: the best seat to feel the pulse of Vieux-Lyon on the Saint-Paul side.
The Vieux-Lyon metro station serves the quarter, a few minutes' walk away; the Saint-Paul station links western Lyon. From Bellecour and the Presqu'île, line D drops you at the foot of the lanes: you leave the car without a thought and arrive relaxed, ready to sit down.
Lyonnaise cuisine, in its rightful place
On the plate, no needless staging: honest, local cooking made from a careful selection of terroir produce. Fine charcuterie, the Lyonnaise gratinée, bouchon specialities and house desserts make up a menu true to the Lyon spirit — more contemporary, yet just as convivial.
Regulars of the quarter find the classics of a real bouchon here, alongside more contemporary openings — vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Enough to seat, at the same table, the lover of tradition and the curious traveller come to taste Lyon between Saint-Paul and Saint-Jean.
Two rooms, a Lyonnaise setting
The décor says at once where you are: a black-and-white chequered floor on the ground floor, wall slates, white linen and burgundy napkins. Nothing forced, nothing fake-rustic — just the atmosphere of a bouchon that has crossed the decades at the heart of Vieux-Lyon.
Upstairs, a second, moulded room suits quieter meals and larger parties. Two floors, sixty-five covers in all, a terrace: room for a table for two at lunch as much as a family dinner or a corporate event, steps from Saint-Paul.
Air-conditioned room, wheelchair access, Wi-Fi: today's comfort in a setting of yesterday. It is that continuity — the heritage décor, the attentive service of the present — that makes the house's signature on rue des Trois-Maries.
At the table, on the Saint-Paul side
Three markers to build your meal in the bouchon spirit, whether you're wandering around Saint-Paul or a Vieux-Lyon regular.
Starters
Fine charcuterie, creamy burrata, generous salads: the meal opens on carefully chosen produce, in the Lyonnaise tradition.
Mains
Tender meats, bouchon specialities and house purées — terroir cooking executed with precision, no showing off.
The classics
The Lyonnaise gratinée, croutons and melted cheese, and the house desserts: the signatures that give a real bouchon its soul.
Around the table: Saint-Paul and Vieux-Lyon
Eating in Saint-Paul also means extending the visit: Saint-Paul church and its octagonal bell tower, the Saint-Paul station and its clock, the Renaissance courtyards and traboules up to rue Juiverie, and the climb to Fourvière reached by the funicular from the foot of the quarter.
Lunch before the climb up the hill, dinner after a stroll through the lanes: the table fits naturally into a Lyon day. We recommend booking, especially at weekends and in high tourist season, when Vieux-Lyon fills up fast.
Keen to extend your discovery of the terroir? Our Lyon specialities, our concept and the story of the house await on the site, in the same spirit of a bouchon true to its roots.
Frequently asked
Eating in Saint-Paul: your questions
Where is the restaurant in the Saint-Paul quarter?
At 1 rue des Trois-Maries, in Vieux-Lyon (Lyon 5th), a few minutes' walk from Saint-Paul church, the Saint-Paul station and the Vieux-Lyon metro station.
How do you get to the restaurant in Saint-Paul?
Metro line D serves the Vieux-Lyon station, a few minutes' walk away; the Saint-Paul station links western Lyon. As the quarter is pedestrian, leave the car in a nearby covered car park (Saint-Paul, Saint-Jean), then walk to rue des Trois-Maries.
What are the opening hours?
Tuesday to Friday, 12–2pm and 7–10pm; on Saturday and Sunday for both lunch and dinner services. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.
Do I need to book a table?
Booking is strongly recommended, especially at weekends and in peak tourist season: Vieux-Lyon is one of the busiest quarters in the city. You can reserve online or by phone.
Do you offer vegetarian or gluten-free options?
Yes. The menu includes vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options alongside the traditional Lyonnaise specialities.
Can you come as a group near Saint-Paul?
Yes, two modular rooms seat up to sixty-five guests, for a family meal, a christening or a corporate event, at the heart of Vieux-Lyon.
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Your table is waiting on the Saint-Paul side
Book online, or call us directly: we welcome you on rue des Trois-Maries, at the heart of Vieux-Lyon.