Journal · Lyon in December
What is the Festival of Lights (Fête des Lumières) in Lyon?
Where 8 December comes from, the candles in the windows, and how to enjoy the festival from Vieux-Lyon, all the way to a bouchon table.
In short
The Fête des Lumières is Lyon's great popular festival, held over several evenings around 8 December. It began on 8 December 1852, when bad weather disrupted the unveiling of the Virgin's statue at Fourvière and Lyon residents lit candles in their windows instead. Those little glass candles, lumignons, still line windowsills on the 8th. Since the late 1990s the city has turned it into a free, open-air international light festival. Vieux-Lyon is one of the best places to experience it: come by metro, go early, and book dinner well ahead.
Every year around 8 December, Lyon lights up over several evenings: artworks in the streets, projections on façades and candles in thousands of windows. A religious tribute to the Virgin Mary has become a world-famous light festival.
We start with the history, then move to the practical side: what happens today, where to watch from Vieux-Lyon, how to plan your evening and where to have dinner.
Contents
What this guide covers
Origins of the Festival of Lights
It all starts on Fourvière hill, above Vieux-Lyon.
The aldermen's vow of 1643
Threatened by plague, Lyon's aldermen vowed to honour the Virgin every year at Fourvière. The city was spared, and the vow is still renewed each 8 September.
8 December 1852: statue, rain and windows
A gilded Virgin was to be unveiled on the Fourvière chapel. Bad weather cancelled the celebrations, so residents lit candles in their windows, and a tradition was born.
The lumignon
A small glass, a candle, a windowsill: the family side of the festival, still kept alive on the evening of the 8th.
From local custom to international festival
From the late 1990s the city invited light artists over several evenings, and the festival grew into a major European winter event.
1643
The aldermen's vow
8 Dec. 1852
First lit windows
Late 1990s
Festival is born
8 December today: how the festival works
Light, crowds and free entry.
Installations and projections
Artists transform façades, squares and riverbanks, explored on foot.
Dates
Several evenings around 8 December; check the official programme.
Crowds and safety
Pedestrian zones, access checks, some stations may close at peak times.
Exact dates and the programme are published each autumn by the City of Lyon on the official festival website.
Experiencing the festival from Vieux-Lyon
Four ways to enjoy the evening without leaving the Renaissance quarter.
Saint-Jean cathedral
Its Gothic façade facing the Saône is a highlight, and the square is an easy meeting point.
Fourvière hill and basilica
Take the funicular from Vieux-Lyon station or walk up; access may be regulated on busy nights.
Dining afterwards? See our restaurant near Fourvière page.
The Saône quays
Reflections on the water; footbridges to the Presqu'île get crowded, so cross early.
Candles on Renaissance façades
Side streets like rue des Trois-Maries keep the festival's quiet, original spirit.
Planning your evening
Public transport
Leave the car: take metro D to Vieux-Lyon, and see our Vieux-Lyon access and parking page.
Pick your time
Arrive at nightfall or choose a weeknight; dine during the peak.
Clothing and children
Dress warmly, bring a compact stroller and agree on a meeting point.
Dining in a bouchon during the festival
The ideal evening pairs the lights outside with a Lyonnaise meal inside: here is what dining in Vieux-Lyon looks like.
Book well ahead
Small dining rooms fill weeks in advance, especially weekends and the 8th.
A warm evening
Lyonnaise gratinée, brioche sausage, pink-praline tart: winter comfort after the cold.
Aux Trois Maries, place de la Baleine
One of Lyon's oldest bouchons, born in the middle of the last century, with two dining rooms including an air-conditioned upstairs room.
Usual hours, closed Mondays
Our regular hours apply during the festival.
See our restaurant hours in Vieux-Lyon.
A group outing during the festival
Up to 40 guests upstairs, 65 for a full private hire. Get in touch early.
Details on our groups and private events page.
FAQ
The Festival of Lights: your questions
Why is the Festival of Lights held on 8 December?
On 8 December 1852 residents lit their windows when bad weather cancelled the celebrations for the Virgin's statue at Fourvière.
Is the Festival of Lights free?
Yes, all installations are outdoors and free.
How long does the Festival of Lights last?
Several evenings around 8 December; dates are published by the City of Lyon.
Should I book a restaurant during the festival?
Yes, well in advance: Vieux-Lyon bouchons are full on festival nights.
What to eat in Lyon on a festival night?
Warming Lyonnaise dishes: gratinée, brioche sausage, pink-praline tart.
Where to watch the festival in Vieux-Lyon?
Saint-Jean cathedral, Fourvière hill, the Saône quays and quiet side streets.
Going further
Want to round off the evening at the table? Discover our evening restaurant in Vieux-Lyon.
Your table for the Festival of Lights
Book your Vieux-Lyon dinner for the festival online or by phone. For groups and companies, consider a private hire.